Canım Benim

Hamsi damsi is a small fish
Hamsi damsi makes a great dish
All the Turkish people
Every year in fall
Cannot resist eating them all*

The air is turning chilly in Istanbul and Northern Turkey and people are seeking the sunshine again to warm their bones instead of fleeing from it. Fall has long arrived and with it the excitement of the Hamsi season kicks in. Hamsi is a tiny silver anchovy that Istanbulites and people all along the north coast are mad for. As the waters of the Karadeniz are cooling off, it is the best time to enjoy this little Black Sea bounty again. There are many ways to prepare Hamsi but I guess the most popular way is fried or grilled. But I’ve been told that Black Sea Turks love it so much that they cook Hamsi rice, bake Hamsi bread and even prepare deserts with it.

As some of you already know I have been blessed with a Black Sea Turkish family, from Rize to be precise. Both Bülent’s parents are from that city as is the family of my sister in law; Zekiye. That area is world famous for its çay, but here in the country Hamsi makes a great second. And though I have heard many times how incredible good this little fish is, I’ve never tried it myself. I don’t like anchovy to be honest so I was a bit skeptic when we all got invited by Zekiye for Hamsi this week. But Bülent was so looking forward to this dinner that I held my brave face up because I didn’t want to spoil the fun.

Last night we got a call from Levent (B’s brother) that fresh Hamsi had arrived in town and we were all expected at their house around 7pm. As we arrived at their door we walked into a cloud of fresh ocean smell and the sizzling sound of oil in a pan. Zekiye’s mom was in charge that night. She stood in the kitchen, the floor covered with newspaper because of the spattering oil, patiently preparing those little fish one by one. First she covered them in corn flour. Then she fried them in the pan, tightly put next to each other like a pancake. After a few minutes she tossed those little suckers into the air with great routine to turn them around and bake them on the other side. Then she slid them into a covered bowl and began with a second portion. She made so many that we could have invited all the neighbors within smelling distance.

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When making Hamsi for dinner it is the only star running that show. So nothing else is served with it but a simple mixed salad, fresh bread, some onions cut into big chunks and lemons cut in half. We drank cola and water with it. I was told to eat them with my fingers, which I did. If you’re a real Rizeli like my father in law, you lift them by their tale and put the whole thing in your mouth with bone and all, followed by bites of bread and salad. He told me the bone is good for your eyes. But couldn’t do as Rizeli do. I did take them by the tale though. I put them on my plate, removed the thin little bone in the middle and the tale (heads were removed before already) sprinkled a bit of lemon on it, put it between two pieces of bread and then took a bite. It was very tasty. Crunchy on the outside with a soft and meaty torso.

I liked it, though it took me a little strength at first to overcome my inner vegetarian. But if you love fish you will absolutely feast on Hamsi. After a lifetime of not eating anything with a face, I learned to eat fish when I came to Turkey. I’m still not a lover, but I guess I am a becoming friend. At least of this dish. And the fact that it’s an annual thing makes me want to eat it partially because it tastes good and partially because of the anticipation and celebration that’s going on all around it.
Merry Fishmas everyone!

*After Humpty Dumpty, an English poem I learned when I was 6 and still had an eternal memory.

First image by David Hagerman.